I’m trying to get my A LCD to work with my Arduino Uno and display a simple message but whenever it’s turned on, it boots up showing the. The I2C 20×4() LCD display module is an Arduino compatible display which uses high speed I2C serial bus. The LCD display is a 20×4 white character. Standard blue backlight LCD for your Arduino projects, it supports 16 characters wide and 2 rows in white text on blue background was specially developed for.

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I’m trying to get my A LCD to work with my Arduino Uno and display a simple ldd but whenever it’s turned on, it boots up showing the first and third rows filled entirely with blocks for a couple of seconds, and then it disappears backlight still on of course so it can’t be a contrast issue.

20×4 Character LCD Display, 20×4 LCD Display, LCD Display – Winstar

Here’s the code I am using: D1 don’t use what the heck is this for? D2 don’t use what the heck is this for?

D3 don’t use what the heck is this for? No change when using lcd.

LCD 20×4 Blue Backlight Parallel Interface Display Module 2004A

Are the pins on the labelled? And this intrigues me Johannesburg hams call me: JimboZA on Oct 12, I use a 20×4 as follows on my Uno: I think the photo might be deceptive, or wrong.


Do not IM me. I will not respond.

Ask questions in the forum. It’s unclear to me whether VO or is it V If it’s an input, then grounding it through a 2004aa doesn’t make sense to me. It’s even worse with a 10k, which is at about Its schematic shows the VO on the wiper of a pot between 0v Vss and 5v Vdd. Attached snip from my datasheet which shows the pot.

I2C LCD2004

I forgot to make mention of my sketch entries supporting the lcd: From your original post: Just in case 2004aa missed it: Did you check this link form the page you linked to? It shows a datasheet of that display don’t know for sure it is your display. Have a look at “blink without delay”.

Did you connect the grounds? Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: So I finally got it working, turns out it is necessary to solder connections from the pins to the copper either on the back or front surfaces – there is almost no contact made just by keeping the pins lose 2004aa having them fit through the holes.

Enough of them were making contact to supply power to the backlight but the ones necessary to receive information from the Arduino were obviously not touching. Sorry for wasting everyone’s time.

As for the potmeter connection, I’m still running the end wires to the ground and the middle wire to pin 3 of the LCD and it works fine in adjusting the contrast of the text. Yet I’m still being told to ldd one of the end connections to 5V. What difference would this make?


Sorry to second guess you experienced folks but I’m just concerned about potentially shorting something since it is working fine as it is unless the way I have it setup now is already shorting something. Glad you’ve got it working.

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Yep, unless they are purpose made connectors, you always need to solder things together to ensure proper electrical connection. In depends on how it’s designed to be wired. If the circuit is just looking at middle pin resistance to ground, then grounding both external pins would work, but you’d have a different tapering since effectively, both sides of the pot become resistors in parallel.

If it’s supposed to have one side at 5V, then the pot acts as a voltage divider, probably into a signal pin. You really need to figure out how the circuit intends to have it wired up, then wire it up that 20004a.